CULTURE
Art has been closely intertwined
with religion and royalty in Burman history. Temples, pagodas
and palaces displayed the artistic skills of painters, wood carvers
and sculptures. Temples and pagodas were traditionally built of
brick and many are still standing. The great palaces, however,
were made of wood, and only one badly-deteriorating example of
these beautiful carved structures remains today. Art and architecture,
which relied on royal support, faded when the last royal kingdom
collapsed.
Although court culture has been extinguished,
popular street-level culture is vibrant and thriving. Drama is
the mainstay of this culture, and just about any celebration is
a good excuse for a pwe (show). Performances may recount
Buddhist legends, or be more light-hearted entertainments involving
slapstick comedy, dance, ensemble singing or giant puppets. Burman
music is an integral part of a pwe; it originates from Siam and
emphasises rhythm and melody. Instruments are predominantly percussive
and include drums, boat-shaped harps, gongs and bamboo flutes.
Over 85% of the Burman population
is Theravada Buddhist, although it is not the official state religion
and since the Ne Win government takeover, it has actually officially
occupied a less central role in Burman life. In the Rakhine region,
towards Bangladesh, there are many Muslims. Christian missionaries
have had some success among hill tribes but many remain staunch
animists.
Burmese is the predominant language
and has its own alphabet and script. Though you're hardly going
to have time to master the alphabet, it may be worth learning
the numerals, if only so you can read the bus numbers. English
is spoken by a few Burmans, particularly by the older generation.
It's
easier to buy authentic Burman dishes from food stalls rather
than restaurants. Chinese and Indian eateries predominate, and
hotel restaurants tend to remove much of the chilli and shrimp
paste from their Burman dishes. Rice is the core of any Burman
meal. To this is added a number of curry options and a spicy raw
vegetable salad, and almost everything is flavoured with ngapi
- a dried and fermented shrimp paste. Chinese tea is generally
preferable to the over-strong, over-sweet and over-milky Burman
tea. Sugar-cane juice is a very popular streetside drink, and
stronger tipples include orange brandy, lychee wine and the alarming-sounding
white liquor and jungle liquor.
