CULTURE
The Eastern Caribbean has
produced notable figures in literature, including V S Naipaul
of Trinidad, George Lamming of Barbados, Jamaica Kincaid of Antigua,
Maryse Condé and Nobel prizewinner Saint-John Perse of Guadeloupe,
Jean Rhys of Dominica and St Lucia's Nobel prizewinner, Derek
Walcott. The contemporary poets Aimé Césaire and Édouard Glissant
hail from Martinique; they both write about the Blacks' struggles
for cultural identity under the burden of colonial influences.
The Caribbean's prime cultural contribution is its music - calypso,
soca, steel pan, ska, reggae and zouk. Domestic architecture is
characterised by brightly painted, corrugated-iron roofed, wooden-shuttered
structures.
Population densities vary
widely, with Barbados' population density of 591 people per sq
km making it one of the world's most densely populated countries,
while some of the smaller islands such as Saba and St Barts have
fewer than 5000 people. The vast majority of islanders are of
African ancestry, and the ethnic mix also includes those of European,
East Indian, Middle Eastern, Asian and American descent. About
3000 Caribs still live on the eastern side of Dominica, and there
are smaller native populations on St Vincent and Trinidad.
English is the main language
spoken in the region, except for the French islands of Guadeloupe,
St Barts, Martinique and the French side of St Martin (governed
as a sub-prefecture of Guadeloupe). Dutch is the official language
of Saba, St Eustatius and Dutch St Martin (Sint Maarten), but
English is more commonly spoken. Many locals relax into a French
Creole or patois when at home, and their enviably relaxed way
of life is best expressed in the colloquial expression 'limin''
- taking things at an easy-going pace, chilling out. Roman Catholicism
is the dominant religion in the French islands, and Protestantism
is followed on the English and Dutch islands. Rastafarianism also
has its followers, and is directly linked to the popularity of
ska, reggae and the sacramental smoking of ganja (marijuana) -
and limin'. East Indians on islands such as Trinidad have introduced
Hinduism and Islam, and a small number of islanders believe in
obeah, a type of black magic.
Eastern Caribbean food reflects
the region's rich blend of African and European influences. Root
crops, seafood and goat feature in quintessential West Indian
dishes such as goat water (spicy goat stew flavoured with cloves
and rum), jug-jug (cornflour, green peas and salted meat), mountain
chicken (not chook at all, but frogs' legs), souse (pickled pig's
head and belly, served with a pigs'-blood sausage), dolphin (no,
not Flipper, but a white-meat fish called mahimahi) and the most
common snack, roti (potatoes and meat stuffed inside a tortilla-like
wrapping). Of course, on the strongly French, English or Dutch
islands, you can run the gamut of pâtisseries and crêpes, fish
and chips or smorgasbords. The region's many exotic tropical fruits
include breadfruit, guava, mango, papaya, starfruit and soursop.
If you're talking liquor in the Eastern Caribbean, you're talking
rum, with Barbados' Mount Gay the most renowned. Carib beer is
also popular, unless you're on a Dutch island, when of course
you'll reach for a Heineken.